Keys Highlights

Peter Anderson: Driving Force Behind the Conch Republic

Briana Ciraulo | July 2014

(Editor’s Note: The Florida Keys & Key West lost a very good friend in July 2014 with the passing of Peter Anderson after a courageous battle with cancer. In recognition of his dedicated efforts to make the Keys and the Conch Republic a better place, and promote their offbeat spirit and character, we share this profile written four months before his death.) 

Peter Anderson helped keep the spirit of the Florida Keys' Conch Republic alive and thriving.

Peter Anderson played a pivotal role in keeping the spirit of the Florida Keys’ Conch Republic alive and thriving.

“I came down to Key West on a Tuesday night in early April 1984 in my old Cadillac El Dorado with red leather seats, my clothes packed away and a couple grand in my pocket,” said Peter Anderson.

While this may sound like a relatively ordinary “moving to the Florida Keys” story, in reality there’s nothing ordinary about Peter OR his story.

Secretary General of the Keys’ Conch Republic, Peter has worked tirelessly over the past 25 years to spread the republic’s unique and heartwarming philosophy.

“As the world’s first ‘fifth world’ country, we exist as a ‘state of mind’ and aspire only to bring more warmth, humor and respect to a planet we find in sore need of all three,” he explained.

The Conch Republic, the Keys’ quirky alter ego, was established in 1982 to protest the installation of a U.S. Border Patrol checkpoint that stopped traffic at the top of the Overseas Highway — the only road in and out of the Keys.

Peter and Keys musician Howard Livingston (right) share an on-camera moment and a smile.

Peter and Keys musician Howard Livingston (right) share an on-camera moment and a smile.

Because the federal government was treating the island chain like a foreign country, local leaders decided it would become one.

They staged a ceremony seceding from the United States, raised a quickly-constructed Conch Republic flag, declared “war” on the mother country, carried it out by pelting federal agents with stale Cuban bread, and surrendered after 60 seconds.

Not surprisingly, the action attracted international attention. The first Conch Republic Independence Celebration, commemorating the gutsy secession, was organized in 1983.

“We celebrate our independence annually in a public and notorious manner,” said Peter.

The 10-day festival is held in April every year and consists of events including a “drag race” for drag queens, a naval parade and battle, and a bed race (yes, really!) along Key West’s Duval Street.

Peter, shown here in his "conchsulate" office in 2003, was an untiring Keys ambassador. (Photo by Rob O'Neal)

Peter, shown here in his “conchsulate” office in 2003, was an untiring Keys ambassador. (Photo by Rob O’Neal)

Peter himself was the driving force that ensured the Keys would continue to hold the fun-filled independence celebration.

In 1990, there was talk of the event’s eighth year being the last. Peter believed the Keys’ independence deserved annual commemoration, and came together with Key West movers and shakers to continue the wacky festival.

After the success of the 1990 celebration, Captain Tony Tarracino, then the prime minister of the Conch Republic and mayor of Key West, appointed Peter the republic’s first secretary general.

“I actually decided to take the job seriously, and now we’re here 25 years later,” Peter stated.

It’s safe to say that being secretary general of the Conch Republic is a one-of-a-kind job. Peter has far exceeded people’s expectations, working to have the republic recognized as its own nation and respected by members of the world community.

With a reminiscent chuckle, he said one of his favorite memories was “crashing” the Summit of the Americas in 1994. He fought to have the Conch Republic represented as an actual country of the Americas — and succeeded, gaining global attention and respect.

Before his illness, Peter was a welcome part of ceremonial welcomes for special visitors. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Before his illness, Peter often appeared at events welcoming special visitors to the Keys and the Conch Republic. (Photo by Rob O’Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Peter has received praise from many world leaders for his diligence in advancing the “islands nation” over the years. The Conch Republic even issues citizen and diplomat passports, giving people the chance to gain “dual citizenship” as residents of their own country and honorary inhabitants of the republic.

More than his dedication and hard work, however, his undying love and admiration for the Conch Republic is what makes Peter Anderson so extraordinary.

“Every single day as secretary general is special, whether it’s greeting foreign ships or meeting the everyday people that want to join our tiny nation,” he said. “I love my job, I love this community, and I love the spirit that formed the Conch Republic, which is alive and well today.”

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Key West Couple Leads Fight for Marriage Equality

Steve Smith | July 2014

The wheels of change sometimes seem to move slowly, but in the last few months we have seen rapid progress regarding marriage equality. I recently attended a hearing challenging Florida’s amendment defining marriage. A large crowd was present as attorneys for both sides argued their positions and the plaintiffs, Key West residents Aaron Huntsman and William Lee Jones, patiently observed.

Aaron Huntsman (left) and William Lee Jones embrace during a media interview following Judge Garcia's ruling. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Aaron Huntsman (left) and William Lee Jones embrace during a media interview following Judge Garcia’s ruling. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Last week, as I was traveling to San Diego to represent the Florida Keys in that city’s Pride festival, Keys Circuit Judge Luis Garcia issued his ruling. Judge Garcia ruled that Florida’s 2008 ban on same-sex marriage was discriminatory and unconstitutional after Huntsman and Jones, a couple for 11 years, filed their lawsuit protesting it.

“I actually dropped my phone when I got the call,” said Jones during a celebration at Key West’s Aqua nightclub. “I was so excited, so proud and happy, so glad that we made it this far so far.”

“We did this to change the laws for everybody in the state of Florida — not just for us, but for all the people that have been hurting over this undue law that is not right,” said Huntsman. “We thought that just two average guys could be able to maybe make a difference, especially here in Monroe County.”

An immediate appeal of the ruling was issued by Florida’s attorney general. But that didn’t seem to dampen the spirits of those celebrating in Key West, recognized for decades for its openness and accepting gay-friendly attitude.

Aaron Huntsman,  attorneys Bernadette Restivo and Jessica Reilly, and William Lee Jones share a post-ruling smile. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Aaron Huntsman, attorneys Bernadette Restivo and Jessica Reilly, and William Lee Jones share a post-ruling smile. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Judge Garcia, whose ruling applies only to Monroe County, initially said same-sex couples in the Keys could get marriage licenses as early as this week. However, the appeal has delayed their issuance for an undetermined time.

For those of you who are not familiar with our welcoming islands, Key West elected an openly gay mayor in 1983, and many other high-profile elected and appointed civic positions have been and are currently held by gay men and women. The city and surrounding Monroe County (encompassing the entire Keys) adopted the motto One Human Family more than a dozen years ago, proclaiming equality and acceptance for everyone.

Nineteen states and Washington DC now enjoy marriage equality. In an additional 14 states, judges have issued rulings in favor of the freedom to marry, with many of these rulings now stayed as they proceed to appellate courts.

Blogger Steve Smith (left) and Joey Schroeder of the Bourbon St. Complex represented the Keys at San Diego Pride.

Blogger Steve Smith (left) and Joey Schroeder of the Bourbon St. Complex represent the Keys at San Diego Pride.

While the Florida battle continues, spend some time with us starting Aug. 14 when we celebrate Tropical Heat, produced by the Key West Business Guild. Revelers will enjoy pool parties at local guesthouses, late-night parties at our nightclubs, and even Silver Key Lingerie’s underwear auction.

Interested in traveling to the event? Travel values are being offered by Delta Air Lines, American Airlines and the Key West Express high-speed ferry from Fort Myers Beach. Information is available on the Tropical Heat website.

Next on the Keys schedule is Womenfest Key West, kicking off Sept. 4. Headlining the festivities is a concert with Hunter Valentine at the historic San Carlos Institute. Other entertainment highlights include a comedy show with Gloria Bigelow, Julie Goldman, and Sandra Valls. Travel values are available on the Womenfest website.

Look for updates on both marriage equality and upcoming festival fun in future blogs. Meanwhile, I hope to see you in the Keys!

Click here to subscribe to the Florida Keys & Key West’s LGBT travel blog.

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Underwater Music Festival Rocks the Keys Reef

Carol Shaughnessy | July 2014

Almost 500 divers and snorkelers explored part of the continental United States’ only living coral barrier reef last weekend, while rocking to a sub-sea concert during the 30th annual Lower Keys Underwater Music Festival.

Costumed divers pretend to play "musical instruments" while enjoying the Lower Keys Underwater Music Festival. (Photos by Bob Care, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Costumed divers pretend to play “musical instruments” while enjoying the Lower Keys Underwater Music Festival. (Photos by Bob Care, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Yes, an underwater concert. The quirky songfest took place in the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary at Looe Key Reef, some six miles south of Big Pine Key. For the past three decades, the event has drawn several hundred divers and snorkelers each year to immerse themselves in the Keys’ colorful marine environment.

Lower Keys resident Bill Becker and a buddy started the offbeat festival as an arts and cultural offering, but they didn’t really expect it to last.

“Originally this was just supposed to be a one-time event,” said Bill. “People loved it. They said, ‘What a great idea. It’s normally a silent world down there, but with music now it just enhances the whole diving experience. Let’s do it every year.’ That was 30 years ago.”

This year as in the past, the four-hour marine musical event was staged by Keys radio station US1 Radio 104.1 FM — where Bill Becker is the longtime news director — in partnership with the Lower Keys Chamber of Commerce. He programmed an ocean-themed playlist of selections that were broadcast underwater via speakers suspended beneath boats above the reef.

During the Underwater Music Festival, some divers spotted "mermaid" Samantha Langsdale frolicking beneath the waves.

During the Underwater Music Festival, some divers spotted “mermaid” Samantha Langsdale frolicking beneath the waves.

“We play a lot of the usual stuff — the theme from ‘The Little Mermaid,’ Octopus’s Garden, Yellow Submarine, a lot of Jimmy Buffett,” Bill explained. “New Age music sounds terrific underwater. We do the theme from ‘Jaws’ to keep the divers on their toes.”

Participants described the music as sounding clear and ethereal, and the underwater visibility as about 50 feet. And while Bill also included some whale songs, the broadcast didn’t attract any whales. (Smaller fish, though, actually seemed to like the underwater music — divers reported seeing them apparently swaying to the beat.)

“It’s the only place we know where music is put underwater for the divers, snorkelers, and marine life,” advised Bill.

But fish weren’t the only creatures to be spotted underwater. Some divers wore costumes (in fact, several were dressed as characters from the classic television show “Gilligan’s Island”) and pretended to play underwater musical instruments sculpted by Keys artist August Powers.

The talented artist creates a new piece for the festival every year, and each one blends elements of an actual instrument and an underwater denizen. Standouts have included his trom-bonefish and clambourine, and this year’s “Belushi Blues Fish,” a guitar-like fish sporting a “Blues Brothers” hat and shades.

Mike Limerick "plays" a riff on August Powers' sculpted "Belushi Blues Fish" instrument.

Mike Limerick “plays” a riff on August Powers’ sculpted “Belushi Blues Fish” instrument.

Snorkeler Uli Clef from Munich, Germany, said he was particularly impressed with the vivid colors and tropical fish he saw underwater.

“Music underwater — I’ve never heard of that before, so that’s really a unique thing,” he said when he surfaced. “All these colorful fishes … that’s perfect.”

As well as offering enjoyment for dive enthusiasts, the broadcast featured diver awareness announcements promoting reef preservation.

“We try to get divers to be aware of their impact on the coral reef so that they lessen that impact and this reef can be here for generations to come,” said Bill Becker.

And that should be music to every ocean-lover’s ears.

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Key Lime Pie to Star in Key West Festival and World Record Attempt

Carol Shaughnessy | June 2014

It will require the juice of nearly 6,500 Key limes. Enough sweetened condensed milk to fill almost 1,000 margarita glasses. Enough graham crackers to outweigh the average Major League baseball player. And a pound of brown sugar for each of the 42 bridges on the Florida Keys Overseas Highway (plus four).

Paul Menta (left) and Jim Brush (right) smooth creamy filling into the giant pie's crust. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Paul Menta (left) and Jim Brush (right) smooth creamy filling into the 2013 world-record pie’s crust. (Photo by Rob O’Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

It’s the world’s largest Key lime pie — and it’s slated to debut Friday, July 4, on Greene Street just off Key West’s famed Duval Street.

Yes, the four-person team of fanatics that earned a world record last year for creating the largest Key lime pie EVER is at it again. And this time they’re even more determined than they were last year.

“You cannot go anywhere below Miami and not find Key lime pie on the menu,” said head fanatic David Sloan. “It’s the official pie in the entire state of Florida.”

He’s right. In 2006, the tart, creamy dessert born in Key West in the late 1800s was voted the state pie by the Florida legislature. And David Sloan, coincidentally (or not so coincidentally) the author of “The Ultimate Key Lime Pie Cookbook,” is on a crusade to make his favorite confection famous around the world.

Key lime pie-makers (from left) Paul Menta, Jim Brush, David Sloan and Marky Pierson savor their triumph. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Key lime pie-makers (from left) Paul Menta, Jim Brush, David Sloan and Marky Pierson plan to top their 2013 triumph with an even larger pie in 2014. (Photo by Rob O’Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

He’s not alone in this quest. Fellow fanatics include Marky Pierson, the festival’s co-founder and an artist whose work recently wowed visitors to the acclaimed Custom House Museum; chef and award-winning kiteboarder Paul Menta, who not long ago opened the Key West First Legal Rum Distillery; and Jim Brush, owner of the Key West Key Lime Pie Co., who’s an expert at thinking “outside the pie pan.”

In 2013, the quartet spearheaded the inaugural Key Lime Festival — and they intend the 2014 festival (like the pie!) to be bigger and better.

It’s set for July 3-5 with a schedule that features the wacky Miss Key Lime U.S.A. Pageant, pie-eating and cooking contests, and other tasty temptations. The fun starts Thursday, July 3, with a 2-5 p.m. Key Lime Cocktail Sip & Stroll featuring (what else?) Key lime martinis and margaritas at local watering holes.

Offbeat author David Sloan, who penned "The Ultimate Key Lime Pie Cookbook" and created the Key Lime Festival, decorates a  pie. (Photo by Rob O'Neal)

Offbeat author David Sloan, who penned “The Ultimate Key Lime Pie Cookbook” and co-created the Key Lime Festival, decorates a pie. (Photo by Rob O’Neal)

The “main course” is scheduled for 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Friday, July 4: a lively street party that sets the stage for the debut of the world’s largest Key lime pie. While the 2013 pie was more than 8 feet in diameter and did indeed earn a world record, Sloan and his cohorts plan to shatter that record — by creating a Key lime pie that measures a whopping 9 feet in diameter.

Of course, you can’t just meander into a cooking supply place like Williams-Sonoma (or even Key West’s beloved Restaurant Store) and purchase a 9-foot pie pan. Last year the quartet constructed a custom pan, which was approximately the size of a pickup truck bed. This year … well, to misquote that classic line from the “Jaws” film, “They’re gonna need a bigger pan.”

As well as watching the final pie-making on July 4, spectators can sample the historic Key lime confection when slices are sold to benefit the Key West Firehouse Museum.

Lively lovelies starred in the 2013 Miss Key Lime U.S.A. Competition. (Photo courtesy of Key Lime Festival)

Lively lovelies starred in the 2013 Miss Key Lime U.S.A. Competition. (Photo courtesy of Key Lime Festival)

If that’s not enough, other festival attractions include a Key Lime Pie Eating Contest and a pie-making challenge for amateur and professional bakers.

And let’s not forget Saturday night’s Miss Key Lime U.S.A. Pageant, a tangy takeoff on the Miss America competition. The contestant who scores highest in the talent, costume, vintage style and Q-&-A categories will take the crown and step into the “limelight.”

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The Emerald Rain: True Treasure Tales Star at Mel Fisher Days

Carol Shaughnessy | June 2014

How does it feel when it rains emeralds? Cris Gober found out, and he won’t ever forget the sight.

A diver examines gold bars and chains on the site of the Nuestra Se–nora de Atocha shipwreck about 35 miles off Key West. (Photo by Pat Clyne/Mel Fisher Maritime Museum)

A diver examines gold bars and chains on the site of the Atocha shipwreck about 35 miles off Key West. (Photo by Pat Clyne, Mel Fisher Maritime Museum)

When Cris was a graduate student, he was part of an underwater archaeology team excavating a 17th-century Spanish shipwreck in the waters off Key West. One day, while he was on the ocean floor working on the wrecksite, he looked up — and saw hundreds of sparkling green emeralds floating down through the water toward him like raindrops.

The emeralds had been hidden under some sand and sucked up by a tool, similar to a vacuum cleaner, that was used by experts to clear sand and silt from sites on the ocean bottom. The device’s hose released the jewels just under the surface of the water and they began floating back to the depths — so Cris, like everyone else caught in the emerald rainshower, delightedly picked up as many of the “raindrops” as he could. 

The year was 1985, and treasure hunter Mel Fisher had just discovered the fabulous riches of the Spanish galleon Nuestra Señora de Atocha. Carrying gold and silver from the New World home to the King of Spain, the Atocha sank about 35 miles southwest of Key West during a 1622 hurricane.

Mel and Deo Fisher were early SCUBA pioneers before they became shipwreck seekers. (Photo provided by Mel Fisher's Treasures)

Mel and Deo Fisher were early SCUBA pioneers before they became shipwreck seekers. (Photo provided by Mel Fisher’s Treasures)

Mel’s team, including his wife Deo and their family, spent 16 years looking for the shipwreck. Their reward came when they uncovered some $450 million worth of gold and silver coins and bars, jewelry, solid gold cups and plates, rare weapons and navigational instruments, and the emeralds that “rained” down on Cris Gober and his fellow divers.

The incredible discovery made by Mel (who died in 1998) and his crew will be remembered and celebrated July 10-13, during Key West’s Mel Fisher Days.

Festival highlights include a dock party with the salvage crew, behind-the-scenes tours of the Fisher family’s private artifact conservation lab, a team treasure hunt and a rollicking street party that recalls Mel’s exuberant spirit.

Despite the historic find, the search for the Atocha isn’t over. According to the ship’s detailed manifest, scores of artifacts and treasures still lie somewhere in the waters off Key West. Mel’s son Kim Fisher leads the continuing search, and each year he and the Fisher team present the festival.

The venerable salvage vessel Magruder will be on display during Mel Fisher Days. (Photo provided by Mel Fisher's Treasures)

The venerable salvage vessel Magruder will be on display during Mel Fisher Days. (Photo provided by Mel Fisher’s Treasures)

For adventure addicts, the most appealing activity just might be the festivities’ opener. At 11 a.m. Thursday, July 10, dockside at the Schooner Wharf Bar in Key West’s Historic Seaport, current and past Fisher crewmembers will gather to share memories and tales.

But that’s not all — Mel’s famed 100-foot salvage boat J.B. Magruder will be on display for the first time, giving treasure fans a chance to view the venerable vessel that played such an important role in the Atocha discovery (and still serves the team today).

Friday’s events include 45-minute guided VIP tours of the private conservation lab at Mel Fisher’s Treasures at 200 Greene St. — spotlighting the techniques experts use to conserve priceless shipwreck artifacts.

That evening, festival attendees can search for riches of their own during the Amazing Mel Fisher Treasure Hunt. Taking place in Key West’s historic Old Town, the hunt will pit teams against each other as they try to win a “treasure chest” containing $5,000 in silver dollars.

Adventurer Mel Fisher, discoverer of the shipwrecked Spanish galleon Atocha, proved that the American dream is thriving -- at least in the Keys. (Photo provided by Mel Fisher's Treasures)

Mel Fisher’s exuberant spirit and amazing shipwreck discovery are celebrated each year during Mel Fisher Days. (Photo provided by Mel Fisher’s Treasures)

Saturday brings a lively daylong street fair in the 200 block of the island’s renowned Duval Street. Though it’s much larger in scale, the fair recalls the parties Mel used to throw for his crew and their families to raise their spirits during the long search.

Also Saturday, those who wonder how the Fisher family got so fascinated with treasure salvage will have a treat — a chance to watch rarely-seen family videos of Mel’s early expeditions, during a special screening at Tropic Cinema.

Of course the festival also features many other attractions (see the full schedule here). FYI, its entire net proceeds benefit the Florida Keys’ Wesley House Family Services.

Throughout the festival — and throughout the year — interested visitors can tour the Mel Fisher Maritime Museum at 200 Greene St. to discover priceless objects from the Atocha and other shipwrecks. And if they look carefully, they might even spot some emeralds that glisten like raindrops.

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Keys Top 10 List: Live Like a Local

Julie Botteri | April 2014

There’s a locals’ vibe in the Florida Keys, and travelers who visit want more of the laid-back lifestyle that attracts so many. Why are these islands so enchanting, and what activities do Keys residents appreciate and embrace? Hear it straight from the locals’ mouths.

Stephen's brilliant photo of Key Largo's iconic Christ of the Abyss statue was widely recognized during the recent 50th anniversary celebration of John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park.

Snorkeling Florida Keys waters is a favorite pastime of local residents.  (Photo by Stephen Frink)

“Running the Old Seven Mile Bridge is my favorite thing to do. Mornings I can see spotted eagle rays feeding in the water below, tarpon or an osprey landing at the end of the bridge — I see more life there than anywhere.” Bette Zirkelbach, manager of Marathon’s Turtle Hospital

“Snorkeling will always be my favorite activity because it’s noncompetitive, it’s all about the experience, and it’s a great family activity. If I could have anything I wanted in life — a million dollars or (to) spend another hour with my family — I would spend another hour with my family.” George Shattuck, owner of Sundance Watersports

“I take silly things from my surroundings and turn them into a tune. For inspiration, I like driving over Keys bridges, sitting in a boat in the backcountry or in the mangroves, or sitting in the forest by my house. We all have to do our little part to make this world a better place, and bringing music to children is my little piece.” Dave Feder, professional musician

“The Keys’ warm, flat, shallow waters are ideal for kiteboarding (best wind conditions late October to early June), and standup paddleboarding and wakeboarding flourish during the summer months when flatter waters prevail. The sports we participate in are not only sports, it’s a true passion.” Mike Walsh, Otherside Boardsports co-owner

Mike Walsh, co-founder of Islamorada's popular Otherside Boardsports, paddles out with son Cody hitching a ride.

Mike Walsh, co-founder of Islamorada’s Otherside Boardsports, paddles out with son Cody hitching a ride.

“I tell everyone how the Keys are perfect because you can work and play hard here. The diversity here is great — you can be wild and crazy one night, and the next sit in the backcountry in your kayak enjoying nature.” Diane Schmidt, general manager of Westin Key West Resort & Marina

“I continue to appreciate our tranquil existence on Sugarloaf Key … I live on a wonderful wooded acre with a pool, a pond and a great garden that I get to tend to year-round. I have a great life.” Bill Becker, U.S. 1 Radio news director, Underwater Music Festival founder

“I really like fishing, and came to the Keys for years with my father on trips. [Later] the marine science subject matter at Pigeon Key appealed to me, and who could ever imagine living in the middle of the ocean at a camp? It’s a different way of life on the island; I can’t just zip back to the store for milk or eggs.” Kelly McKinnon, Pigeon Key Foundation executive director

Andrea Paulson's easygoing attitude and love of the Keys' water environment makes her the perfect guide for backcountry kayak trips. (Photos courtesy of Andrea Paulson)

When Andrea Paulson isn’t guiding kayak excursions, she enjoys fishing as do many other Keys locals.

“My first dive was way too much for me — I knew I had to have more of this magical place. I was hooked. When we came here on vacation, my parents had to tie me down to get me back in the car. That was in 1969.” Ken Nedimyer, Coral Restoration Foundation founder, CNN Hero 2012

“I often find myself kayaking, fishing with my husband and entertaining other fishermen’s wives. I love my job, and when I’m not working I’m out exploring new areas by kayak.” Andrea Paulson, Reelax Charters backcountry guide

“Take a sunset cruise — it’ll blow you away. Eat some local seafood. Have a margarita on the beach at sunset, and see the Keys like a local. That’s how you see the real Keys.” Bobby Mongelli, restaurant owner (Hogfish, Geiger Key Smokehouse, Roostica)

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Savoring a Key West Sunset

Carol Shaughnessy | April 2014

A sunburned little girl in a flowered print dress, long hair streaming past her waist, clambered onto a high stool on the pier overlooking Key West Harbor. The sun was hesitating low in the sky, seemingly pondering the wisdom of dropping below the horizon. The little girl settled herself firmly on her stool. Turning her face sunward, she tapped her fingers in time with the music coming from the band on stage.

The Sunset Pier at Ocean Key Resort is a great place to watch the sun go down in Key West. (Photo courtesy of Ocean Key Resort & Marina)

The Sunset Pier at Ocean Key Resort is a great place to watch the sun go down in Key West. (Photo courtesy of Ocean Key Resort & Spa)

That little girl is just one of the hundreds that gather each evening at Ocean Key Resort’s Sunset Pier to sip tall cool drinks, sample fresh seafood, and savor the magic of a Key West sunset. In fact, spending an evening there with a friend reminded me of the reasons I’m in Key West in the first place.

When we arrived, seating ourselves at a wooden table under a bright-colored “sun-brella,” the orb was still well above the horizon. Across the blue-green harbor, Christmas Tree Island lay serene and the lovely retreat on Sunset Key was fully visible.

We were hardly the first to arrive for the nightly show. Chattering groups were gathered at other tables, standing around the bar, and seated on colorful wooden stools drawn up to the dock’s long rail overlooking the water.

As we ordered cocktails, a variety of vessels passed practically near enough to touch — a lazy sailboat, a powerboat on a mission, a couple of unidentified floating objects. Caribbean music and light rock drifted over the water, and the scent of saltwater mingled with the aroma of deep-fried conch fritters and the tang of vacationers’ sunscreen.

Sip a tall cool drink and watch tall ships and excursions vessels sail by as the sun goes down over Key West Harbor.

Sip a tall cool drink and watch tall ships and excursion vessels sail by as the sun goes down over Key West Harbor.

The Sunset Pier is a great place to catch a casual meal as well as a spectacular sunset. Both a grill and a raw bar are onsite, with a variety of mouthwatering choices available including grilled local fish and mahi-mahi sandwiches. The raw bar features oysters on the half shell, sweet peel-and-eat shrimp, citrus-marinated ceviche, stone crab claws in season and other temptations.

A word about the Sunset Pier bar: you can get virtually anything there, ranging from a simple Perrier to beer to exotic libations. Blender offerings are the choice of many sunset spectators, and several concoctions have names that sound deliciously decadent.

As we watched, sipping our cool (though non-exotic) choices, the sun slipped into the water, and novices at this game thought the show was over.

Not so. After the sun’s actual descent, leftover rays painted the sky with traces of peach and robin’s-egg blue. Connoisseurs of the spectacle generally instruct newcomers to wait at least 20 minutes more to see the most brilliant colors appear.

After the sun’s descent, leftover rays paint the sky off the Sunset Pier. (Photo courtesy of Ocean Key Resort & Spa)

After the sun’s descent, leftover rays paint the sky off the Sunset Pier. (Photo courtesy of Ocean Key Resort & Spa)

When the lights lining the pier began to glow, we ordered another round. Some people don’t notice it, but sundown brings a subtle electricity to Key West’s waterfront and downtown districts.

Maybe it’s sparked by the evening temperature shift, or the breeze that drifts across slowly darkening water. I don’t know, but for me the sensation is part of the island’s indefinable magic.

As we finally got up to leave, a lone sailboat drifted by with a green light glowing atop its mast. Most people had already gone, the dark sky retained a hint of burgundy, and a few early stars were out. We walked away from the pier feeling relaxed and content — and grateful to glimpse the ritual of sunset from such a fine vantage point.

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Favorite Museums Tell Key West Tales

Carol Shaughnessy | April 2014

Key West’s past unfolds as you visit its museums and historic homes. Some of them explore the island’s seafaring roots, some celebrate famous residents, some offer a glimpse of unique architecture and a bygone way of life — and all are fascinating if you’re truly interested in the intriguing southernmost city.

Today's Key West Lighthouse beckons visitors as it once beckoned mariners. (Photo courtesy of the Florida Keys News Bureau)

Today’s Key West Lighthouse beckons visitors as it once beckoned mariners. (Photo courtesy of the Florida Keys News Bureau)

So on your next Key West getaway, put on your walking shoes and adventure through the five favorites listed here.

Key West Lighthouse Museum, 938 Whitehead St. Since the island’s settlement in the 1820s, residents have been dependent on the sea for their livelihood. Whether wreckers, traders, fishermen, or spongers, they were at the mercy of wind and wave — and the beacon of the Key West Lighthouse led them safely home.

The light itself was completed in the late 1840s and guided mariners for more than 120 years. Today the museum contains collections relating to the history of Florida Keys lighthouses and their hardy keepers. (More than one keeper, incidentally, was female.) Eighty-eight steps lead up to the light’s top, and if you make the climb you’ll discover an unequaled view of the island and surrounding waters.

Ernest Hemingway Home & Museum, 907 Whitehead St. Hemingway began his love affair with Key West in 1928. By 1931, he and his then-wife, Pauline, were ensconced in the former Asa Tift home on Whitehead Street. Today the Spanish Colonial mansion is a museum furnished with mementos, and the second-story pool house where Hemingway wrote every morning has an evocative atmosphere all its own.

Ernest Hemingway's former home is now a popular museum whose feline residents have a Hemingway connection. (Photo by Andy Newman/Florida Keys News Bureau)

Ernest Hemingway’s former home is now a popular museum whose feline residents have a Hemingway connection. (Photo by Andy Newman/Florida Keys News Bureau)

Entranced by the island’s rowdy lifestyle and spectacular fishing, Ernest remained in Key West until 1939, and he captured the island’s spirit during the Depression in the brilliant “To Have and Have Not.” The grounds of the Pulitzer Prize-winner’s home are inhabited by cats — some with six toes who are supposedly descended from Hemingway’s feline Snowball.

Mel Fisher Maritime Museum, 200 Greene St. Key West resident Mel Fisher spent 16 years searching for the shipwreck of the Nuestra Señora de Atocha, a Spanish galleon that sank during a 1622 hurricane. On July 20, 1985, his long search ended. Subsequently, gold and silver coins and bars, religious jewelry, contraband emeralds and more were recovered from the site.

The impressive museum contains treasure and artifacts from the Atocha and her fleet-mate, the Santa Margarita. Among them are a 77-karat emerald glowing with green fire, a solid-gold poison cup once used by Spanish nobles, and historically priceless ship’s fittings and navigational instruments. Artifacts from the English merchant slaver Henrietta Marie, also excavated off Key West, are on display as well.

A diver examines gold bars and chains on the site of the Nuestra Se–nora de Atocha shipwreck about 35 miles off Key West. (Photo by Pat Clyne/Mel Fisher Maritime Museum)

The Mel Fisher Maritime Museum contains gold bars and chains recovered from the Nuestra Se–nora de Atocha shipwreck. (Photo by Pat Clyne/Mel Fisher Maritime Museum)

The Curry Mansion, 511 Caroline St. With its circular drive, exuberant balconies and veranda, and widow’s walk that offers a sweeping panorama of land and water, the Curry Mansion exemplifies the elegance of yesterday’s Key West.

The rear of the house is part of the 1855 homestead of William Curry, who became Florida’s first millionaire, and its imposing facade was added later by Curry’s son Milton. Today the Curry Mansion remains one of the most spectacular structures on the island, and its collection of antiques transports visitors back in time.

Harry S. Truman Little White House, 111 Front St. In 1946, suffering from a vicious cold, then-president Harry Truman was ordered by his doctor to take a break. He visited Key West and was so impressed by the island’s warmth and friendliness that he returned 10 times — spending 175 days of his presidency in the building that became known around the world as Truman’s Little White House.

During his Key West sojourns, Truman made momentous decisions and conducted important meetings away from the pressures of Washington.

During his Key West sojourns, Truman made momentous decisions and conducted important meetings away from the pressures of Washington.

“The best time I ever had,” said Truman, who continued to visit the island until 1969, “was in Key West while I was president.”

Today, the home he loved is restored to offer a fascinating glimpse of the Truman era. Items of note include a round poker table handmade for the president, his desk, and his treasured piano. Every year Truman’s grandson, author Clifton Truman Daniel, returns to the Little White House for a critically acclaimed symposium exploring aspects of his grandfather’s legacy.

Want to fall in love with Key West like Ernest Hemingway and Harry Truman did? Click here for some real-time glimpses of the enticing island.

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Keys’ Lady Angler Crushes World Record for Tarpon on Fly

Julie Botteri | April 2014

For Islamorada resident and passionate fly angler Heidi Nute, fly fishing in her Florida Keys backyard has become a hunt for giant tarpon.

Heidi Nute's passion for fly fishing led her to an astonishing tarpon catch.

Heidi Nute’s passion for fly fishing led her to an astonishing tarpon catch.

On a warmer-than-usual Saturday afternoon this past February, she found one (did she ever!). Heidi landed a massive 152.8-pound fish — the largest tarpon caught by a female angler on a fly rod that has EVER been recorded by the International Game Fish Association (IGFA).

How did the history-making story unfold? Heidi was fishing with her husband, fellow fly angler Paul Nute, and Islamorada’s Captain Tim Mahaffey, in the Everglades near Flamingo. After a slow morning, the trio had hooked six tarpon in the shallows. The last and largest ate Captain Mahaffey’s fly without hesitation.

When Heidi took a turn, “large” suddenly developed a whole new meaning.

She patiently enticed the giant fish to bite her bug and gamely fought to land it while it jumped 16 times in a grueling 65-minute period. When the tarpon was finally out of fight, the captain skillfully gaffed it — using a historically successful folding-barb kill gaff that the late legendary angler Billy Pate used.

The use of the gaff was a rare piece of serendipity — because Billy Pate reportedly boated all his record-setting tarpon and marlin with that very hook.

Since honing her fly-fishing skills, Heidi has taken home multiple trophies from notable Keys tournaments.

Since honing her fly-fishing skills, Heidi has taken home multiple trophies from notable Keys tournaments.

Coincidentally — or maybe not — Heidi and Paul had bid on the item and won it during an auction of Pate memorabilia. Later, Heidi had enlisted the aid of local Captain Randy Towe to sharpen the blade and cover the shaft with an anti-slip wrap.

“It is just great to have that piece of history used to get this fish,” Heidi said after her astonishing catch.

Her pending world record submission must meet certain criteria for the IGFA to verify the record. Steps included testing both the length and breaking strength of her leader, and ensuring the catch was made according to international angling rules laid out by the IGFA.

Although the 12-pound tippet over-tested slightly, Heidi’s entry has already successfully qualified for the women’s 16-pound fly rod record for tarpon — held previously by Diana Rudolph for catching a 135.5-pounder.

Heidi’s submission is now in the IGFA’s record certification process, and her outstanding new record should be finalized within a few weeks.

Based on her accomplishment, you might think Heidi has been a “top gun” fly angler for 20 years or so — but that’s not the case.

A tarpon seemingly stands on its tail after being hooked in the Florida Keys. (Photo by Pat Ford)

A tarpon seemingly stands on its tail after being hooked in the Florida Keys. (Photo by Pat Ford)

In fact, she scored her world-record fish — the fish of a lifetime — just seven years after she graduated from Sandy Moret’s world-renowned fly-fishing school in Islamorada.

Before that, her prior experience only included fishing with her father in the streams of upstate New York’s Catskill Mountains, where she had used light spinning rods for small trout.

Since taking that fateful class, however, Heidi has competed and triumphed in several Keys tournaments. She scored back-to-back victories, alongside Captain Rob Fordyce, in the 2012 and 2013 Ladies Invitational Tarpon Fly tournaments — and took grand champion angler titles at the 2009, 2010 and 2013 Women’s Fall Fly Classic.

“I attribute 100 percent of my success to the caliber of Keys fishing guides and their coaching,” said Heidi, who moved with Paul from Miami to Islamorada full-time in 2011. “Fishing with the very best has done a lot to shorten the learning curve.”

Now that her new world record seems certain, what’s next for this intrepid angler?

According to those in the know, Heidi is in hot pursuit of the 12-pound tippet record.

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Life’s a Beach — at Top-Rated Bahia Honda

Carol Shaughnessy | March 2014

Want to chill out on one of America’s best beaches? Then head for the Florida Keys. That might sound a little incongruous, since the island chain is better known for its gorgeous living coral barrier reef — the third largest in the world — than its beaches. But nevertheless, the Keys boast some pretty special beaches.

Beautiful Bahia Honda State Park features one of the top-rated beaches in the entire U.S. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

The beach area at beautiful Bahia Honda State Park is rated among the best in the entire U.S. (Photo by Andy Newman, Florida Keys News Bureau)

And one of them, located at Bahia Honda State Park in the Lower Keys, has just been named among the United States’ top 25 beaches for 2014 by TripAdvisor.

That’s quite impressive, since Trip Advisor is acclaimed as the world’s largest travel website. Bahia Honda’s beach kudo was announced as part of TripAdvisor’s Travelers’ Choice Beaches Award winners — with rankings based on the quality and quantity of TripAdvisor traveler reviews and ratings for beaches over a 12-month period.

Listed at number 17, Bahia Honda’s lovely (and I do mean lovely) expanse of sand is part of a 524-acre state park on Bahia Honda Key between mile markers 36 and 37. That’s just a little bit north of Big Pine Key, and not far from Looe Key Reef, an amazing snorkeling spot and home to the annual Underwater Music Festival.

In the Lower Keys, you can head for a refreshing spot like the inviting beach at Bahia Honda State Park. (Photo by Bob Krist, Florida Keys News Bureau)

The Bahia Honda beach invites sunning, swimming and snorkeling in the clear near-shore waters. (Photo by Bob Krist, Florida Keys News Bureau)

The Bahia Honda beach features deep near-shore waters for unmatched swimming and snorkeling — and the park is also well known for its camping and picnicking facilities, watersports, nature trails, the Sand and Sea Nature Center, a marina and rental cabins.

By the way, the TripAdvisor honor is far from the first for Bahia Honda’s wonderful beach area. In 1992, it was ranked among America’s top 10 beaches by Dr. Stephen P. Leatherman  (best known as “Dr. Beach”), and since then it’s been named among the country’s top 10 in several travel studies. 

But Bahia Honda also has another enticing attraction to offer. Several times each year, visitors to the park are seemingly transported a century into the past — during historic re-enactments that recall the astonishing creation and heyday of Henry Flagler’s Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad.

Park visitors take a trip through time from 1912, on the Over-Sea Railroad’s inaugural journey — when it made world history by connecting the Keys with each other and the mainland for the first time — through 1938 when the Florida Keys Overseas Highway replaced the track.

The Flagler re-enactment at Bahia Honda State Park recalls a pivotal moment in Keys history. (Photo courtesy of Bahia Honda State Park)

The Flagler re-enactment at Bahia Honda State Park recalls a pivotal moment in Keys history. (Photo courtesy of Bahia Honda State Park)

Construction on the rail line, which was conceived by visionary Standard Oil millionaire Henry Flagler, started in 1905. It was officially called the Florida East Coast Railway’s Key West Extension, but it became known as the Over-Sea Railroad because its track stretched more than 100 miles out into open water.

Its bridges and viaducts connecting the Keys, including a nearly 7-mile-long bridge at Marathon in the Middle Keys, were regarded as an engineering marvel in their time — and in fact, it became widely acclaimed as “the eighth wonder of the world.”

Bahia Honda State Park’s historic re-enactment is presented on a stage decorated like Flagler’s private train car. And it’s supremely fitting that a portion of one of the original railroad bridges, now a scenic walking path, arches against the sky behind the stage.

Characters that appear in the performance include Henry Flagler’s third wife Mary Lily Kenan, literary legend Ernest Hemingway (who lived in Key West throughout the 1930s), Flagler’s brother-in-law Will Kenan and Flagler himself.

This historic Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad bridge arches against the sky at Bahia Honda. (Photo by Rob O'Neal, Florida Keys News Bureau)

Part of a historic Florida Keys Over-Sea Railroad bridge arches against the sky at Bahia Honda. (Photo by Bob Krist, Florida Keys News Bureau)

The re-enactment shows are one of many first-person interpretation programs presented by the park’s rangers — and believe me, the “actors” are excellent in their roles.

Unfortunately, these well-crafted shows don’t take place every month (or oftener!). But even without the shows, visitors to the park certainly won’t lack things to do — including sunning, swimming or snorkeling at one of America’s best beaches.

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